Recently, I have noticed that there’s a new trend in skincare, and it’s all over my social media feeds. I see hundreds of influencers and online creators, dermatologists, and experts claiming that retinol is the new go-to product for clear, glowy skin. Is that really the case though? How much trust do you have in a one-minute video of a stranger online? I know I didn’t trust it, so I decided to do some research. What is retinol exactly, and how does it scientifically and biologically work?If you also have these questions, look no further as I have researched answers for both of us.

Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, meaning it is derived from vitamin A or has a very similar structure and function. It is part of the retinoids family, which refers to synthetic or natural analogues of vitamin A, and these can bind and activate receptors on cells and induce the transcription (or the development) of relevant, appropriate genes. Often, retinoids are used as a potent dermatological agent against acne, psoriasis, and other skin diseases. Retinol is fat-soluble, allowing it to pass through the outermost layer of your skin—known as the stratum corneum—as well as the deeper dermis layer. Once retinol reaches the skin cells—specifically a type called keratinocytes—specific enzymes convert the retinol into retinoic acid, which can then bind to specific retinoic acid receptors in the nucleus. When retinoic acid binds to these receptors (which are specific for them and only them), it causes the activation of the cell and its genes. Based on the different type of cell that retinol enters, there are different effects. For example, keratinocytes (which make up most of the outer skin) are activated and help with growth and proliferation; fibroblasts produce collagen; melanocytes produce melanin pigment; and Langerhans cells strengthen the immune and inflammatory response. Retinol, therefore, encourages these cells to multiply, helping the skin renew. By activating these genes within these cells, the skin barrier strengthens, less water is lost through the skin, and increased collagen production helps with skin structure and firmness.

It is important to note, however, that Vitamin A and its derivatives are also involved in embryogenesis (or the development of embryos), including the development of the nervous system, liver, heart, and kidneys. Studies have shown that while Vitamin A is very beneficial for skin health, immune function, and reproductive health, taking high doses—particularly in supplement form—can be harmful and cause symptoms including nausea, dizziness, headaches, and liver damage. Therefore, retinoids are limited in their use in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

So how can you start your retinol journey in the safest way? Begin slowly—start with a low concentration (0.2–0.3%) once or twice a week, only in the evening—allowing your skin to build a tolerance and reduce the risk of irritation. After applying retinol, make sure to add a moisturizer, especially if you have sensitive or dry skin. The morning after, be sure to wear a product with SPF to protect your skin barrier. It’s also important not to combine retinol with harsh ingredients such as AHAs/BHAs (chemical exfoliants) vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide. A better alternative would be niacinamide (Vitamin B3), hyaluronic acid (a humectant that focuses on protecting and moisturizing the skin), or other ceramides.

So how long will this journey actually take? Well, the first 4–12 weeks might be a bit slow, and you might not see the results or effects right away as your skin gets used to the medication. It is also important to note that if you have other skin conditions or sensitive skin, you might be more prone to irritation, redness, and stinging—especially if not paired with a barrier-repairing moisturizer. Remember: hydration is key when it comes to retinoids.

Talking about the effects and results on different skin colors and ages is also an important concept. After some research, I’ve found that skin color does not affect how retinol works, and it should be used the same as with other skin types. However, sun protection is even more strongly encouraged. In terms of age, teenagers should stay away from any type of retinoids unless prescribed, whereas your 20s–30s is a good time to start if your focus is prevention of fine lines and acne, as you can build up strength slowly. At the 40–50 year mark, retinol can help with deep wrinkles, texture, and hyperpigmentation, and older skin may tolerate stronger formulations over time.

So to conclude, retinol is a powerful and science-backed-up skin ingredient that promotes cell turnover and boosts collagen. Its ideal for oily and acne prone skin or anyone seeking long-term skin renewal. Make sure you use protective SPF and if you have side effects of other conditions make sure to consult a dermatologists or GP before starting the journey.